Thursday, October 16, 2014

A Magical Valley

Tirthan Valley, Day 1 (October 9, 2014)

I found this unspoiled secret valley while looking for a good stopping point between Manali and Shimla.  Google maps showed a place called Great Himalaya National Park, and a bit of research on the Internet led me to Tirthan Valley.



I had almost given up going because all I could find were home stays that looked too rustic and basic.  Indian standards of hygiene are, to put it bluntly, seriously lacking.  Even in really good hotels, we encountered carpets that weren’t vacuumed unless we asked them to, faucets with water spots from prior guests, and a general lack of attention to detail.  India may be a spiritual country, but it certainly didn’t invent the phrase, “Cleanliness is next to godliness,” and it doesn’t appear to believe that either. I think this is in large part due to the fact that men are now doing jobs traditionally done by women.  When was the last time you met a straight man who thought a carpet needed vacuuming?     

But I had my heart set on exploring this beautiful valley so I kept looking and emailing places until I stumbled on a place called TheHimalayan Trout House (HTH), which luckily had availability for two nights.  

From the Manali-Shimla highway, we turned off a dirt track and drove for many miles (sorry, kilometers) to reach the place.  For a good while, our driver stopped to ask people to make sure we were on the right track.  But we kept following the Tirthan river on the winding roads and passed several little villages until we arrived at HTH in the village of Nagini.

Main road through the Valley and the villages 

Wildflowers

Plowing the fields

Village of Nagini in Tirthan Valley

Tirthan River flowing thru the Valley and the villages

Sound of rushing water beats the sound of traffic!

The beautiful Tirthan River

The room was chilly but with a lovely veranda overlooking the river, and very artistically decorated.  I’d been queasy from the drive so we didn’t do much of anything that evening other than sit on the veranda and enjoy the sound of the river just outside our lodge rushing over the large rocks.  

Dinner was served in a communal area of wooden tables and stone benches with cushions, all encircling a fire.  This is where the magic began.  First we met Christopher, the co-owner of HTH with his wife Shefali.  A former schoolteacher, he regaled us with a few stories.  He explained that all the construction was done by him and the four men on staff (“except the fat cook”) when they didn’t have guests, including the woodwork, i.e., the dining tables, bathroom sink supports, and rustic cupboards.  The land itself was owned by relatives of the men working for him:  “They are my landlords,” he said.  “I’m not building this for my son.  He’ll probably want to do something else.”  Christopher spoke in a clear matter-of-fact way and I imagined him in front of a room of rapt students. 

Soon we met our fellow travelers at the next table, and we took instantly to a lovely family. The father was an Indian man with a voice I could have listened to all day.  Imagine the most genteel British accent you have ever heard and blend it with just the right amount of Indian to make it understandable, now add a soft-spoken baritone and a deep knowledge of everything from fishing and polo to art, architecture and ancient history.  Raja is well read, well traveled and unfailingly polite.  He let other people speak instead of interrupting them because he wasn’t interested simply in getting his point across.  He looks like a big bear of a man, imposing and regal, but he has the most gentle soul.   


He met his wife Masja, who is Dutch, in Delhi.  They have two children, a 13-year-old girl and a 16-year-old boy.  The young girl is charming, personable and wise beyond her years.   Both the children have been home-schooled by their parents, primarily using documentaries, and raised in the Summer Hill schooling philosophy out of Britain.  Over the course of the next few breakfasts and dinners, we exchanged ideas and stories with Raja and Masja, and looked forward to mealtimes. 

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