Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Wagah Border

India Trip 2014

Wagah Border

One of the organized excursions as part of the anniversary celebrations was a visit to the Wagah border between India and Pakistan, where a ceremony occurs just before sunset every day.  The border at Wagah consists of two gates facing each other, one opening into India, and the other into Pakistan, with border security forces on each side.  Observers who attend the ceremony sit in bleachers in their respective country.  I’m not sure if this was just the day we were there, but India’s bleachers were packed to capacity, whereas the Pakistan side was a lot thinner. 

While the crowd assembles and finds their seats, speakers blast patriotic songs into the throng, loud enough to drown out the songs being broadcast on the other side of the gate.   Volunteers from the crowd run up and down with flags, stirring up the crowd.  Patriotism too is a kind of religion, and it has its own rituals.

The ceremony consists of each country’s soldiers on their respective sides doing a strange orchestrated aggressive speed walk towards their gates, kicking up their legs when they arrive at the gate, raising their arms in triumph, and then, at least on the India side, adjusting their turbans.  Here's a link to the whole ceremony.

Volunteers run with flags before the ceremony




India's Border


Pakistani bleachers - men's side
Pakistani bleachers - women's side
Pakistani bleachers - women's side

India bleachers - men and women together

Sunset over Pakistan


Indian soldiers prior to ceremony

Two women start off the ceremony

Speed March Toward Gate



Pakistani and Indian soldiers tell each other what they think of each other

Urdu for "Don't mess with me!"


The all important head gear adjustment













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